Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Voyage Tromso to Trondheim Phil's journey across the Arctic Circle
Let me tell you - Hurtigruten is a great way (probably the best way) to see Norway nuts and bolts! But it is not for everyone. As you know, I am always honest in my assesment of the cruise industry.
What Hurtigruten did do, was to deliver exactly what it promised from their brochure. Over the fours days, we managed to see some great scenery, both while cruising the Fjords and the coastline and also during our land tours - which were very informative.
It is an extremely relaxed atmosphere onboard the ship - dress code is casual, hiking trousers, jeans, walking boots attire during the day and jeans or casual trousers and a shirt or t-shirt is adequate for evening meals in the restaurant. This is more of an adventure / explorer type holiday where you get to see the parts of Norway the larger cruise ships cannot navigate to. You are rarely out in open seas, especially on our journey from Tromso across the Arctic Circle down to Trondheim. We only spent approximately a couple of hours in open sea.
My journey started with an early morning flight from Manchester to Tromso via Oslo with Scandinavian airlines. The first flight was approx 1hr 50 mins and the second a little under 2 hrs.
On arrival into Tromso we were taken by coach to the Tromso Wilderness Centre where our dogs were awaiting us. We were about to experience a ride in a sled pulled by ten huskies. These huskies are Alaskan huskies, apparently ideal for working with people and tourists.
We travelled two to a sled over snowy white moorlands where it is quiet true, the only sound you hear is the panting and occasional barking of the dogs. The scenery at night is quite breathtaking and the views over the water to the island are amazing.
After the 4 kilometre ride it was time to warm our faces up by a cosy log fire in a Teepee, where our host served up a fabulous local meal or soup (broth), a reindeer stew followed by the most delicious home made chocolate cake. Those who know me will understand why I enjoyed this meal so much!
By this time it was late and our ship was due into Tromso at 23.45hrs before leaving for Harstad at 01.30hrs in the morning, calling at Finnsnes on the way at 04.45hrs!
We stood on the quayside as the MS Midnatsol sailed under the bridge and into view. Fifteen minutes later, we were in our cabins.
This is the remarkable thing and the total rawness of the Hurtigruten experience - there is no baggage scanning or queues of people waiting to get their key cards and then waiting to be told when to get on board. But then again Hurtigruten is no ordinary cruise holiday - quite the opposite. It is an adventure in relative comfort. The cabins are completely adequate with all the usual shower facilities and power points.
After a long first day we had to be up early for breakfast at 7am inreadiness to join our tour coach at 8.15am for a morning tour before picking the MS Midnatsol up further down the coast at Sortland.
Our from Harstad to Sortland took us to the medieval church of Trondenes for a short seven minute service in both English and German. This was something I have never seen before and involved a short prayer, the Lords prayer and then two verses of a hymn accapella..!
After the service we walked to the museum where I entertained the tour by playing the piano, then it was off to join the ferry for a 20 minute journey across the Gullesfjord.
A short 30 minute drive brought us to Sortland where we re joined the MS Midnatsol.
1pm and our first Lunch onboard. Now if you love fish you will be in heaven. Here is the choice I had to pick from;
Mackerel with pepper
White fish
Roe of Capelin
Poached trout
Marinated greenland halibut
Marinated Salmon
Trout with Pepper
Redfish
But do not worry if you do not like fish, there was a choice of salads, cheeses, cold and cooked meats including beef and spare ribs.
There was also a very good choice of deserts.
After lunch we sat and relaxed in the panoramic Horisont-Hall on deck 8 at the front of the ship.
15.15 hrs and we have just berthed at Stockmarknes. This where you get the opportunity to visit the Hurtigruten museum which is free entry when you show your key card. Also here and dry docked adjoining the museum is one of Hurtigruten's old ships, the Finmarken. I have taken some pictures of the bridge and some of the original cabins - my how things have changed!
Make sure you save time to walk around this old ship because you are only berthed for 1 hour and unlike modern cruise ships, there is no waiting for anyone who is slightly late. These are still very much working ships and have a very tight schedule to keep to.
So it's back on board for a couple of hours before our next 1 hour stop in Svolvaer where we agree to get off and have a drink in the Ice Bar!
This was not your typical trendy London Ice Bar, more like the freezer area at the back of your local butchers with ice carvings inside. But we are in Norway lest we forget!
The bar and glasses were very impressive, made completely out of ice. It was quite wierd drinking cocktails out of cone shaped glasses made from ice, just make sure you have gloves on, otherwise your glass may stick to your skin..!!
After this interesting little interlude we were back on board for a quick if not expensive drink at the bar before our evening meal. A glass of beer is £6.00 and a can of Guiness is £6.30 so there is little opportunity to get tipsy!!
Evening meals onboard Hurtigruten alternate every other night between fish and meat. Tonight was fish night, but you can view the menu in the morning and if you do not like the choice, the chef will make you an alternative.
Our starter of Asparagus wrapped in ham on a rocket salad was excellent. The main course was the most beautiful piece of cod topped with a spoonful of mushy peas served with mash potatoe, and a superb rich sauce. This may not sound great, bu having cruised on luxury cruise ships, this meal was superbly presented and cooked to perfection. The pudding was a magical chocolate souffle with vanilla iced cream. Brilliant..!!
After dinner we spent the evening in the bar entertaining the guests with our dancing, piano playing and singing - maybe entertaining is too strong a word, but we had a great time. Time for bed!
Up on deck early at 7 am to see another Hurtigruten ship sail past. A quick breakfast before we have a brief stop in Ornes at 7.15am.
Then the momentus occasion - we cross the arctic circle - 66 degrees north 33 minutes. Then I decide to go the whole hog and go for the open deck jacuzzi, bearing in mind it is snowing and is -2 degrees. It's great one you are in, but getting there demands a great deal of teeth chattering!!
I now have my official certificate which will be proudly displayed in the office.
We didn't get off the ship at Nesna as we decided to wait until Sandnessjoen. Not that there is anything here of any significance, apart from a Coop store where the popular purchases were chocolate and crisps. Still very expensive though at £1.20 for a Twix..!!
I really enjoy just being able to get off the ship several times a day and having a walk around the small towns and villages scattered up and down the cost of Norway. You get a real feel for the country. I particularly like the way you can get off the ship at one town - take an excursion - and get back on for lunch at the next stop. Then if you are really keen you can take another excursion in the afternoon. This really is a great way to make the most of your time in Norway and make the most of the Hurtigruten coastal voyage.
Back on board after a 45 minute walk around this small Norwegian town, just in time for lunch.
I had the most beautiful piece of cod which was freshly brought on board from the Lofeton Isles, something which the Norwegians really excel in. If you do not like fish - you may be in trouble, but as Isaid earlier, there is a wide choice of meats and salads, both breakfast and lunch and if you do not like the evening meal which is posted outside the restaurant the night before, simply speak with the restaurant manager.
On the last day, we departed the ship at 8am for a 2 hours sightseeing tour of Trondheim. Once again, it was extremely informative and this was a good way to finish our coastal voyage. Trondheim was very pretty and I have been fortunate enough to see it in the summer when the midnight sun really does bring out the rich colours in the wooden buildings.
Even though it was winter and below freezing most of the time, I really did enjoy my voyage across the arctic circle with Hurtigruten and hopefully you will have reached a better understanding of this beautiful niche product from my blog. Below are some pictures of the lounges onboard - if you would like to see all the pictures, simply select "Phil's Photos" (left).
Do not forget that in summer, the whole coastline takes on a different appearance - in fact if the truth is known, it changes all the time, but obviously it is much greener in the summer months.
One thing I haven't mentioned is the wildlife. Some of the excursions that Hurtigruten offer for wildlife enthusiasts are simply remarkable and can involve trips on Zodiac boats to reach some of the wildlife sights. Obviously such tours book up quikcly and I strongly recomend you book early in order to guarantee your place on these popular triips.
You will find Hurtigruten ships, comfortable but not plush. Facilitating but not extravagant.
Call Kathy, Lisa or Susan (01253 341014) if you would like any advice concerning Hurtigruten's Norwegian Coastal Voyage or you can email me direct at phil@thecruisevillage.com
Thanks to the team - a great bunch of guys!
This is a cruise blog entry by Phil.
